My first few weeks in Kathmandu

I can't believe I've already been in Kathmandu for nearly four weeks now. Things in Nepal are completely foreign to anything I have ever encountered before in my life. A friend once told me that she loved traveling in a developing nation because of "how raw things are." In my last three weeks, I have realized how "raw" life can be here in Nepal as well. I have found that nothing is concealed or coated or tucked away. I am feeling, smelling, and seeing things up close and personal. The cows roam the streets freely, the dogs wake up the Tibetan city of Boudha at 5am, and the monks and nuns continuously circumnavigate the Boudhanath Stupa, gripping tightly to their prayer beads. In the beginning of my journey, I was completely overwhelmed by this foreign place and this completely foreign culture, yet as the days go by, I feel more and more apart of Boudha, Nepal.

I have had several interesting cultural experiences since arriving from the US. I am in a very interesting and unique position in that I am living in Nepal, a predominantly Hindu nation, yet am living in Boudha, which is a Tibetan Buddhist enclave in the heart of Kathmandu. I am also living with a Tibetan family, yet have interacted with many Nepalis thanks to the program coordinator here, as well as my host family's friends. For my Tibetan family, living in Nepal is obviously somewhat of a challenge. They feel violated and persecuted after having been forced to leave their homeland and attain refugee status in Nepal. My host mother, Amila, wears the same t-shirt nearly everyday that reads, "Save His Holiness The Dalai Lama. FREE TIBET!" Amila and I have discussed her families involvement with the protesting at the Chinese Embassy in Nepal. Out of fear of being deported to India, they no longer go to the protests, which happen daily.

Within our Tibetan home, there are portraits of the Dalai Lama and other Lamas everywhere in the apartment. Popo-la, the father of my host father, chants and meditates at all hours of the day. Both in the morning and at night, he heads towards the stupa with his prayer beads wrapped around his wrist to pray. I also attended a puja with my host family, which is a Buddhist ceremony, in this case held for the 49th day after someones death. In the Tibetan Buddhist tradition, it is said that the period of rebirth for an individual is from the day of their death, to 49 days after. On the 49th day a puja is held in order to pray that the soul of the person is reborn into a heavenly realm.

After nearly four weeks of adjustment, I can say with confidence that I am happy to be in Nepal and am looking forward to the next two months.